When it comes to the best things to do in Rome the list is endless. On a recent Roman holiday, we tried to make the most of four days in the city, occasionally heading outside the tourist areas to catch a glimpse of everyday life. At times we thought we were walking through an Eastern European city. Outside the city center we found Communist style structures, simple and similar to every other building on the street. The cars here were small and unsophisticated. Yet it was impossible not to notice the history of this once ancient village on the Tiber that blossomed into one of the most formidable empires the world has ever seen. Few world cities offer the chance to discover 2,000 year old ruins amidst the modern architecture of an otherwise contemporary European capital.

As first time visitors to Rome, we wanted to explore the city’s historical roots, but we also wanted to live like Romans. This article covers our entire four day stay, from the cuisine to the historical excursions and shopping. Needless to say, you could spend weeks here and still not see it all. For the best way to see everything, we will start with the basics: when to visit, where to stay, and how to explore. Then we will dive headfirst into my favorite part of any culture: the cuisine. To round it out, we will conclude with the best ways to discover Rome’s rich history, while simultaneously indulging in contemporary cosmopolitan pursuits like shopping. But first, let us lay the foundation for this historic and epicurean journey.

When to Visit, Where to Stay, and How to Explore

When to Visit

Avoid summer at all costs. I have never visited Rome in the summer, but anyone with sense will recommend scheduling your trip between October and April. We visited in January and had an incredible time. Street life stays strong despite the cold as restaurants set up heaters and/or enclosures around outdoor tables.

I can only imagine how miserable Rome gets in sweltering summer heat. Add the crowds of tourists from around the world and you have yourself a recipe for disaster. What exacerbates the situation is the fact you have to walk almost everywhere. The thought of experiencing Rome when it’s muggy, hot, and crowded did not appeal to us. Although it was cold in January, it was warmer than our home base of New York City (expect high 30s to low 50s Fahrenheit in the winter months). With a good coat, scarf, gloves, and maybe a hat, you’ll be ready to walk anywhere in Rome.

Where To Stay

When it comes to where to stay, the boutique options reign supreme. It is important to have a centrally located and comfortable home base because you will spend most of your time walking to the city’s attractions. We stayed at the Singer Palace Hotel, which met all of our needs. There are so many hotel options in Rome, but not only did Singer Palace have rave reviews (which it lived up to), it was also centrally located for everything we wanted to do – Pantheon, Trastevere, Trevi Fountain, Colosseum, Vatican, Spanish Steps, etc.

The hotel also had a fantastic breakfast that was included in the room rate (it’s convenient not having to find breakfast each morning, although great cafes and pasticcerias abound!). So when it comes to where to stay, choose a hotel that fits your itinerary and budget, keeping in mind that you will likely do a ton of walking regardless.

How to Explore

Walking is truly the best way to get around. Certain neighborhoods like Trastevere demand exploration on foot, so bring good shoes. The unique boutiques, artisan shops, and countless trattorias should not be experienced any other way.

Rome has two main subway lines, neither of which connect to most of the central areas of the city. I guess you could take a bus, but who wants to do that on vacation? Forget about renting a car unless you want to experience trying to park one in Rome, not to mention learning to navigate its narrow and crowded cobblestone streets.

Taxis are generally sketchy unless you call one yourself or find a legitimate taxi stand. We took a taxi from the the airport (Fiumicino) and surprise, surprise, the driver refused to accept credit cards. Cash only. We had researched this in advance and it sounded like they were required to accept plastic, but fresh from a transatlantic red-eye, the last thing I wanted to do was haggle with the first person I met in Rome. We had to find an ATM. He then tried to charge 60€, despite the required flat rate of 48€. I felt swindled already.

There is a train from the main airport (Fiumicino) called the Leonardo Express, but unless you stay close to Termini (the main train station), I would not recommend it. You would have to take the subway, walk, or call a taxi in order to reach your hotel from there. Take a taxi from the airport and save yourself the hassle, but make sure to bring cash!

Cuisine

Once you master the basics, dive into one of my favorite aspects of Rome, the cuisine. Similar to hotels, there are countless options for quality and authentic food. Rome has Michelin Star restaurants, but fine dining does not always guarantee local flavor and feel. I prefer to hunt for my dinner, with all due respect to the Michelin critics. This approach often leads to wandering around “hangry” and frustrated, but when it pays off, every bite feels so worth it. Below are the culinary highlights from our Roman holiday, which include some wine bars, but no traditional pubs because they simply don’t exist in Rome! Every drink requires a meal, time, and relaxation. You know, the way life should be.

• Colline Emiliane. Handmade pasta. Enough said. Make sure to book a reservation in advance. This place has some hype, as evidenced by the long queue to get inside when the doors opened at 7:30 PM. Aside from the pasta, which is fantastic, the mortadella is also homemade and delicious.
• Il Goccetto. Wine bar with local vibes. We ordered the cheapest prosecco on the menu, and it was still probably one of the best we have ever tried (seriously, ever). The bubbles wouldn’t stop! Antipasto for two and red wine to compliment it made for the perfect snack.
• Cacio e Pepe. Literally translates to “cheese and pepper.” This dish is about as Roman as it gets. Almost every restaurant worth its salt has it on the menu. Cacio e Pepe is the commoners food and it goes well with anything – beer, wine, you name it.
• Ristorante Ditirambo. One of my favorite random finds. We were wandering the streets looking for dinner and stumbled upon this restaurant. It looked like someone’s house from a previous life (the bathroom even had a shower). I felt like I was in my grandma’s kitchen. The service was attentive and enthusiastic, and the food was homemade, locally sourced, and made with tender loving care. My wife’s handmade ravioli was stuffed with seafood and vegetables, and my osso bucco was so tender it fell off the bone at the slightest touch. The wine was on point and the creamy dessert made for an exquisite finale. You probably won’t find this place on many lists, so don’t tell anyone.
• L’Antica Birreria Peroni. About the closest you can get to a local pub in Rome. I did not hear one person (apart from the waiters) speak English the entire time we were there. The Peroni selections and styles are extensive (I had no idea there were so many varieties!). The food menu is similarly impressive (and affordable) with a huge list of pastas, sausages, steaks, and desserts. We were there on a Tuesday and people were going hard, pounding one Peroni after the next. The place was raucous and loud, but supremely entertaining.

Other food items you cannot miss in Rome: Suppli (classic Roman street food – deep fried rice balls with different fillings); Gelato (it’s everywhere, even in the winter); Roman style pizza (square pies!); Tramezzino (pizza-like sandwiches); and anything that strikes your fancy at the great markets in the city (Mercato Testaccio is considered one of the best).

The History

Food in Rome will leave you fat and happy, but the city’s history shocks and awes. That is what thousands of years can do to a place. We only had four days to see it all, so we had to choose wisely.

• Pantheon. Completed in 125 AD, this former Roman temple is one of the best preserved buildings from ancient Rome. Its dome and oculus are architectural marvels, and with its location in the historic city center, it is fairly easy to access. You can take a tour or explore its confines yourself within 20 minutes.
• Trastevere. My favorite neighborhood in Rome. Filled with restaurants, bars, artisanal shops, and magnificent churches, this neighborhood will wonder and intrigue. Locals of this working class bohemian paradise congregate in Piazza di Santa Maria (pictured above) at all hours. Food tours are popular. Multiple people we spoke with raved about them, but we were not interested in dining with strangers. We chose our own establishments, including Ma Che Siete Venuti a Fà, which had great reviews and solid beer, but was otherwise small and unremarkable. We also discovered a delicious pizzeria, but it was filled with American students, so I refuse to list it here. Whatever you do, do not leave the neighborhood without some limoncello and grappa from one of Trastevere’s many liquor stores.
• Colosseum, Palatine Hill, and the Roman Forum. This was our one and only organized tour in Rome. And was it worth it! For three hours a lovely and knowledgable tour guide walked us (past the lines) through the Colosseum, up Palatine Hill, and across the Roman Forum. Seeing the origins of the city founded by Romulus and Remus was incredible. For anyone interested in Roman history, I could not recommend this tour more.
• The Vatican. Planning ahead is imperative if you want to see this famous country within Rome. There are plenty of different tours available, but we decided to keep it simple and go at our own pace. The Vatican website allows you to book your time in advance for a nominal fee. We selected the earliest time slot (9AM) and had most of the museum to ourselves (with the audio guide, which worked great). As you can imagine, the lines get insane, so do yourself a favor and plan to skip them. One thing is for sure – you cannot leave Rome without seeing the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel.

Obviously there are plenty of other sites to see, including the Spanish Steps, Trevi Fountain, and Museo e Galleria Borghese (to name a few). Apart from the Pantheon, everything else listed above requires planning and the dedication of at least half a day to really capture the full experience.

Shopping

My wife’s favorite part of Rome was probably the shopping. She did some damage on Via dei Condotti, the main designer street in Rome (see the handbag purchase below!). This street leads up to the Spanish Steps and is simply beautiful to walk down even if you do not intend on opening your wallet. Perpendicular and intersecting this street is Via del Corso where you will find a plethora of shops from major brands like Zara to local family run stores (I loved the local leather stores – you could smell them all the way down the block). For more of the local tip on where to shop, I found this blog post really helpful.

*Keep in mind that the city runs bi-annual sales (or “saldis”) every January and July! Saldi everywhere!

Conclusion

In conclusion, I cannot stress enough the importance of visiting Rome in the off-season (October to April). The crowds are smaller, the weather is cooler, and the prices are better. It is not the most relaxing city in the world at any time of year, so prepare for hustle and bustle, which may include speeding vespas that threaten your life. However, few places can match the history of this city. You feel it on every street and in every trattoria. Rome will feed you well and for a fraction of the price of other European capitals. It will inspire and energize the history buff inside you. So embrace the legend of the shewolf and plan your next trip to this beautiful village on the Tiber.