A Year in Restaurants – 2019

Published by PolisPandit on January 6, 2020January 6, 2020

Eating is one of my favorite pastimes. Yes, food is fuel, but more importantly, it’s a vehicle for exporting and exploring cultures, and for communicating with family, friends, and strangers alike. When prepared properly, it can express emotion as well as any art form. Few meals rival impassioned and well-executed home-cooking, but restaurants have their place. The best ones transport you to new worlds of culinary heights that simultaneously amaze and please.

White linen is not required. Some of my favorite food on this planet comes from shacks, food trucks, diners, and dives. But don’t get me wrong – I have a strong affinity for Michelin-starred dining. A chef’s tasting menu that explodes with flavor and performs like critically acclaimed theater is for me the height of civilization.

So without further adieu, join me on an eating tour that highlights some of my favorite gastronomy moments from 2019.

Shacks

DJ’s Clam Shack (Key West, FL). Whether it’s the Ipswich fried clams or the Maine Lobster roll filled with whole knuckle and claw meat, your taste buds will thank you. The lobster roll has the perfect amount of mayonnaise on bread that dissolves in your mouth. Go early for lunch when the place opens (11:30 AM) – the lines can get long!

The Clam Shack (Kennebunkport, ME). We continued our lobster roll tour a few months later up north in Maine, the vaunted home of these famous crustaceans. The hamburger style roll was toasted well. This place gave you the option to have your lobster roll with butter, mayonnaise, or both. We went all in with both, naturally.

Versailles (Little Havana, Miami, FL). For classic Cuban food in Miami look no further. This place sets the gold standard. The menu is extensive, and I couldn’t make up my mind, so I ordered “The Classic” sampler, which comes with white rice, black beans, picadillo ground beef, roast pork, sweet plantains, ham croquette, Cuban tamale, and cassava with Cuban mojo. No visit is complete without dessert and a cafe con leche (the Cafe Cubanos are on point too). Their brunch is also hyped by many, but I’ve yet to try it.

Competitive Brunching

Breakfast on Ocean Drive (South Beach, Miami, FL). Speaking of brunch, there are few places I like better than the outdoor restaurants along Ocean Drive in South Beach. Living in New York City, we take brunch seriously, and these places almost always exceed expectations, especially on a sunny Miami day. The restaurant hosts are aggressive, but if you negotiate well, you can often find good deals, particularly in the offseason. The food is basic and won’t blow you away, but the two for one drink deals that litter the block are hard to beat. Have one of those and then jump in the ocean across the street.

Breakfast at Secrets Maroma (Quintana Roo, Mexico). I described this breakfast (and other dining experiences) in my article about The Authenticity of Resort Life. It was here that I experienced my first huarache, which is basically an open-faced burrito on masa dough. They throw a sunny-side up egg on top of all the fixings – once you’ve punctured that yolk, get ready to dance in your chair.

Augustine (Financial District, New York City, NY). The opulent interior and Parisian-style decor distract you from otherwise blasé food. This NY Times review felt similarly in 2017. So my advice is to soak in this space at brunch, a time that promises to be bustling, with prices that will do less to hurt your bank account. It’s expensive for mediocre French food, but the ambiance and experience are the rewards. After brunch, stop by for a drink next door in the Beekman Hotel, with its Victorian-era vibes.

Low Key Quality

China Blue (TriBeca, New York City, NY). One of the best parts of living in Manhattan is being able to have almost anything delivered to your door. When you live close to Chinatown, that means some of the best Chinese food in the country (yes, the Chinese food here is still legit). My favorite take-out/delivery spot is technically in TriBeca. China Blue’s dim sum style menu allows you to sample a little bit of everything – in particular, the dumplings and pork buns are outstanding.

Party Fowl (Nashville, TN). When we ventured to “Nashvegas” this past year, I had one thing on my mind: hot chicken. Some people start fights over the best spot for this delicacy, but we were with a group, so we had to go with the flow. This place served it up well. I ordered their hot chicken at the second highest heat level (Nashville Hot). Thankfully I removed my contacts before dinner. Can’t imagine what the “Poultrygeist” tastes like, ooohhhweee!

Barrachina (San Juan, Puerto Rico). Mofongo. There is no better dish to experience on an adventure to Old San Juan. The dish’s base is a tightly knit ball of mashed plantains. I ordered the Combinación (carne, pollo y camarones). The restaurant itself is conveniently situated in the heart of the city, and the al fresco dining in the Puerto Rican sun is tough to beat with a piña colada in hand.

Joe’s Pizza (Greenwich Village, New York City, NY). This Greenwich Village institution needs no introduction. I spent a May evening here in 2019 eating with a friend – we bought a couple slices of the famed pizza and walked across the street to the park pictured below. The people watching is top notch, and Joe’s authentic New York street slice only enhances the mood. It’s my favorite place in the city to grab a slice.

Interurban (Portland, OR). While the revered PDX greats like Pok Pok get most of the attention, we came across this retro saloon while hunting for food along N Mississippi. Glad we did because these corn dogs were money as late night snacks. Don’t judge. We washed them down with craft beer, what else?

Otis (Bushwick, Brooklyn, NY). It’s about time I mention a cocktail bar. This one is a little off the beaten track deep in an industrial part of Brooklyn. We were seeing a show at the Brooklyn Mirage, and it was nearby, so we thought we’d give this place a try. We struck gold. The Bastille Bagel cocktail pictured below tasted as delightful as it sounds. A rustic and peaceful setting created the ideal environment to indulge in burrata and house-made bread, braised pork shoulder pasta with ricotta, and a berry crumble with grappa to top it all off. Otis is a must find hidden gem in Bushwick.

Fresh and Fun

Tommy Bahama (Naples, FL). Dad-mode clothing store? Don’t talk about Tommy that way. This place consistently delivers quality food, drinks, and atmosphere, as described in this post on Naples (the Florida version!). The fish is always fresh, and the cocktails have a mind of their own – try the Dark & Stormy or Cucumber Smash. Then saunter to the shops along 3rd St. South and 5th Ave.

Tommy Bahama (New York City, NY). It’s like Miami in New York. When the weather outside is frightful, Tommy is beyond delightful. The tropical atmosphere greets you at the door. The menu is generally the same as their other locations (you can always count on the Kona Coffee Crusted Ribeye!), and it’s just as dependable. We go here at least once per winter.

Pinchers (Naples, FL). Back to Naples, this time for one thing: stone crabs. You’ll find us here at some point between October and May when the stone crabs are in season. Pinchers is a live spot in Tin City, with great views of the ship canal as shown below. Grab some Monkey Bread for dessert and thank me later.

Fogo de Chao (Midown, New York City, NY). Yeah, yeah, beware of the chains, I know. I will always make an exception though for Fogo. Not only is it the best Brazilian-style steakhouse I’ve been to, it’s one of the best buffets I’ve experienced period. Pro tip – don’t touch the tempting buttery bread they immediately serve, and steer clear of the salad bar for your first 30 minutes of dining. Instead, flip that card to green and flag down all of the filets, ribeyes, and roasts that your belly can fill. Wash it down with a full-bodied bottle of vino and then raid the vegetables and carbs.

High Tea

The Palm Court, Ritz Carlton (Montréal, Québec, Canada). Talk about the height of civilization – you haven’t lived it until you’ve experienced high tea at a Palm Court destination. We frequented a few of them in 2019, and the Ritz in Montréal set the bar. It’s a more intimate tea than some of the others below. The Dom Perignon bar at the center of the space adds a luxurious touch.  

Art Afternoon Tea, Rosewood Hotel (London, UK). The best contemporary tea we’ve had. Located in the Mirror Room of this extravagant luxury hotel, this afternoon tea coordinates with the Tate Modern to feature some of the current exhibitions on its pastries (see Van Gogh below). This isn’t your stuffy Grandma’s tea, so throw on your best “smart casual” dress and regale yourself for an afternoon.

Palm Court, The Langham Hotel (London, UK). Now for something more traditional. Go on Thursday through Saturday to enjoy live jazz while you bask in the elegance of the Palm Court’s ambiance. They’ve been doing it here since 1865, so they know a thing or two.

Palm Court (Plaza Hotel, New York City, NY). The Palm Court tour continues and ends at one of New York’s most iconic hotels. This is gilded age Manhattan. The glass dome covering the Palm Court is timelessly elegant, and the American inspired fare (and portion sizes – see below) creates an unforgettable experience.

Fine

Au Pied de Cochon (Montréal, Québec, Canada). Foie gras everywhere. Prepare for one of the richest meals of your life, whether it’s the Duck Carpaccio, Foie Gras Poutine, Temaki Cheval with venison tartar and a quail egg (my favorite), Foie Gras Nigiri, or their famed Duck in a Can. Together with the French wine, this was probably one of my favorite dining experiences of the year. If you want flavors that will excite and confuse, you must find your way here.

Park Avenue Summer (New York City, NY). This restaurant is seasonal, so as of this writing their menu is focused on winter ingredients. Their hor d’oeuvres bar, however, is year round. We went in the summer, sat at the bar, and were blown away by the small plates, including the watermelon dish below. This place is version 2.0 of the restaurant that enjoyed a successful 22-year run on Manhattan’s Upper East Side. While I never had the chance to experience that location, this one sets a tone of casual elegance and delivers quality, consistent cuisine.

Balthazar (New York City, NY). New Yorkers and tourists alike absolutely love this lively spot in Soho. Their brunch is world-famous, but this year we went to try their dinner menu. Thankfully, we didn’t have any mirror incidents – all this Parisian brassiere did was excite and exhilarate from the minute we walked inside. It’s arguably the city’s most authentic French bistro, with classic cuisine and drinks to compliment its stellar ambiance. Au revoir, Balthazar!

Caffe Milano (Naples, FL). This place was a highlight from our recent trip to Naples, particularly because of the Veal Milanese (pictured below). The fresh arugula, chunks of shaved parmesan, and fresh squeezed lemon only enhanced an otherwise decadent and tender piece of veal. The rustic ambiance and lively happy hour makes you feel like you’re in a trendy cafe in the hills of Tuscany.

Finer

El Patio (Secrets Maroma, Quintana Roo, Mexico). I was skeptical about the food at all-inclusive resorts before staying at one, but Secrets Maroma left me pleasantly surprised. Not only was the buffet brunch delicious every morning, the individual restaurants on the property offered unique experiences that utilized local flavors and ingredients. One of my favorites was El Patio, the primary restaurant offering Mexican cuisine. We decided to go big with the tequila pairing that included everything on the aging spectrum from blanco to añejo. Some of the tequilas I had tasted before (e.g., Don Julio 1942), but others were locally made and not mass marketed to us mainstream Americans. Paired with fresh grasshopper guacamole prepared tableside, along with a full chef tasting menu, it was an incredible experience.

Suraya (Philadelphia, PA). Friends in Philadelphia took us here, and from the minute I walked in I could see why. The space is elegant, but casual. There’s an all day market and cafe, along with an outdoor garden. The food is Lebanese and was so critically acclaimed in 2018 that it was voted “Best New Restaurant” by Philadelphia Magazine. The intense flavors on the menu, from mezzas to mashawis (Kawarma!), pack a serious punch, transporting you around the world through Levantine ingredients. As you can see here, we didn’t like our meal.

Zahav (Philadelphia, PA). Welcome to Israel in Philadelphia. This beautiful restaurant is open yet intimate, and communal yet personal. They’ve organized the menu around the intimacy of sharing. Enjoy their signature laffa bread prepared in wood-fired taboon, along with skewers smoked over hot charcoals. Wash it all down with Lemonnana, which is a sublime concoction of Jim Beam, muddled mint, fresh lemon, and verbena. And as one of Philly’s best restaurants, their tasting menu is reasonably approachable at $48 per person. It may not be the best meal of your life, but the food is fresh and full of intense flavors from across the Mediterranean.

Finest

The Ned (London, UK). Wow. That’s what you’ll say the minute you walk through the front doors of this former bank turned luxury hotel. This Soho House refashioned this old Midlands Bank building while maintaining its classic charm (my favorite example: the giant vault turned bar in the basement). The Ned feels like a club unto itself, with its 8 restaurants across 3,000 square feet serving cuisine from around the world. Pictured below is the Negroni I enjoyed at Cecconi’s. If you’re there on a Sunday, the Sunday Feast is a must (Sunday roasts are a thing in London). There you’ll indulge in lobsters, oysters, roasts, and almost any brunch food your heart desires. And as a hotel guest you’ll receive a membership to the Ned’s Club, which is only reserved for Soho House members and guests. We didn’t try the upstairs given the time of year, but we shut down the downstairs almost every night. Whether enjoying cocktails in The Vault or dining at The Dining Room, which offers modern British cuisine (don’t knock it!), you will relish the urban British luxury.

Los Fuegos by Francis Mallman (Miami Beach, Miami, FL). The live fire grillmaster, Francis Mallman, exhibits his ability across the menu to create savory and sophisticated experiences from simple ingredients. The restaurant even has an asado – a traditional outdoor fire kitchen – to allow the chefs to execute fire cooking techniques, even in the urban Miami environment. As a result, the meat dishes are out of this world. The restaurant itself is fairly under-appreciated and under the radar. If you want to enjoy Mallman’s other spots, you’ll have to travel to South America (Uruguay and Argentina). But why do that when you can go to Miami and enjoy tender slow-cooked ribeye and wood oven empanadas at the Sunday Asado.

Canlis (Seattle, WA). My favorite restaurant in the world. It’s a combination of fine dining and understated Seattle luxury. About the only place where men are required to wear a jacket in a Seattle restaurant, Canlis prides itself on sophistication, but exudes a humbleness that one can only find in the Pacific Northwest. When you walk inside, you feel like you are entering someone’s forest home. Unobstructed views of Lake Union and the Cascade Mountains entice you to engage its interior. Apart from the sleek vessel of a building, it’s clear that what influenced and inspired the original founder, Peter Canlis, still lives on today: “his mother’s recipes, the beauty and grace of Japanese hospitality, the intoxication of Polynesian cuisine, the soul-warming embrace of the Hawaiian people.” The Canlis salad, with its zesty touch, is the perfect way to start any meal. From there, let the chef (a 2019 James Beard award winner) take you on a journey and allow the sommelier to enhance it every step of the way with some of the best wine pairings from around the world (23 consecutive Wine Spectator Magazine Grand Awards). As the waiters serve your table, you cannot help must notice the choreography, astutely designed and executed. No deserted napkin is safe. From start to finish, Canlis will awe and inspire.  

Life’s short. Eat well.