I Went to Asia for Tokyo, but Hong Kong Stole My Heart

Published by John Polonis on

Hong Kong at night on the Star Ferry

This story was originally published via my newsletter (subscribe for thoughtful weekly essays!). 


Tokyo was always my dream. From my first omakase and Shun knife, I knew I would be in love. I wrestled sumos, drank shochu in the Golden Gai, ate sushi for breakfast at the Tsukiji fish market while witnessing my four-year-old try — and enjoy — his first oyster, which was about the size of his head.

But none of that could top the deep love I felt for Hong Kong. We stopped there first, thinking it would be a warm-up act for Tokyo. I wasn’t expecting it to compete for the main event. Let alone steal my heart.

I live in Manhattan and love a city filled with energy where food is taken seriously and can be enjoyed at all hours. Hong Kong not only has that energy and culinary might, but also shares the gritty sophistication of New York City. Where flavor and stories smack you in the face the second you walk out the door.

One second I was walking past a Louis Vuitton billboard the size of a basketball court, and the next I was ducking into a cha chaan teng where the milk tea was as strong as the auntie pressuring me to eat faster. Where dim sum wasn’t simply a meal, but a competitive sport.

And just when I thought Hong Kong was all controlled chaos and skyscrapers, it pulled the ol’ rope-a-dope. Gorgeous water and green hills straight from a nature documentary, with ferries, gondolas, trams and trains that help you see it all. Suddenly I was in the jungle standing before a giant bronze Buddha 260 steps up on Lantau.

How was this all the same city?

That’s when it clicked for me: Tokyo was the star attraction, but Hong Kong stole my heart. Because in its mess, in its unpredictability, it felt like home. The closest thing to Manhattan I’ve ever found, half a world away — only with far better dumplings.

Pick your fighter: chaos or precision”


The extrovert vs. the introvert

Tokyo is like that brilliant but quiet friend who only speaks up when they have something important to say. You admire them, you respect them, you want them around — but sometimes you wish they’d rage against the machine a little more. Instead, they’re comfortable eating ramen in solitude amidst the safety of privacy dividers.

Hong Kong though? Total extrovert. It’s loud, messy, argumentative, and doesn’t care if you can hang or not. Try eating at a popular cha chaan teng like Australia Dairy Company (pro tip: order the steamed milk pudding) during the breakfast rush while sharing tables with strangers like packed sardines. Or attempting to disembark a ding ding without the precise fare.

Tokyo whispers. Hong Kong yells. And I’m here for the noise.


Predictability vs. surprise

In Tokyo, you kind of know what you’re getting. Sushi bars, ramen shops, izakayas — all incredible, all precise, all…expected.

In Hong Kong, even within the same category of restaurant, nothing is ever the same. Every dim sum spot feels like it invented dim sum. Every cha chaan teng has its own quirks, its own menu hacks, its own personality.

One minute we were wandering through a luxury mall at Harbour City, which is like Disneyland for designer clothing. The next minute we were eating roast goose lacquered to perfection in a small shop where the waitstaff barely spoke English. And the goose has a Michelin star despite its humble prices.

Tokyo cannot match the range of surprises Hong Kong offers.


Hong Kong’s exciting transportation circus

Tokyo’s trains are an engineering miracle. They’re famous for a reason because they are so predictable and precise. And they are just like the rest of the city — clean and organized.

Hong Kong’s transportation is like a circus, but in the best way. Ferries zigzag across the harbor, double-decker trams (called “ding dings”) clang through the streets, the Peak Tram pulls you up a mountain at a steep grade like you’re on some 19th-century theme park ride. Gondolas transport you across islands like Lantau so you can see the majestic Buddha.

And then there’s the world’s longest outdoor escalator — an escalator is a tourist attraction in Hong Kong. That’s the city in a nutshell: functional, weird, and unforgettable.


Shopping: perfection vs. chaos

Tokyo might have the best shopping on the planet. The quality of craftsmanship for everything from chef knives to sake and even American style jeans sets the bar high.

Chances are if you want something precise, niche, and flawlessly made, Tokyo has it.

But Hong Kong? Hong Kong has everything. The glitz of luxury malls where you’ll see five Louis Vuitton stores before you find a bathroom. The clutter of street markets where you can buy socks, spices, and knockoff Labubus from the same stall. The tiny stationery shops where you walk out with pens and notebooks you didn’t know you needed.

Tokyo is high art; Hong Kong is a highlight reel of the whole human shopping experience.


A metropolis vs. a jungle city

Tokyo has nature — but it feels like you have to leave the city to get to it. And no, the Imperial Palace hardly counts.

In Hong Kong, the nature is always looming, always present, like the city is borrowing space from the jungle. The Peak is like Manhattan’s Empire State Building view if you replaced concrete with a rainforest.

One weekend we took a gondola to Lantau Island and suddenly we were climbing 260 steps to see a bronze Buddha while staring out at the South China Sea. I grew up in the Pacific Northwest, and somehow Hong Kong gave me that same feeling — wild, green, untamed. Except this time, the wilderness was wrapped around one of the biggest and craziest cities on earth.


So which city wins? Tokyo vs. Hong Kong

That’s the wrong question. It’s like arguing LeBron vs. Jordan — you’re not really debating stats, you’re debating personality types.

Tokyo fans love precision, quiet excellence, and impeccable order that never wavers. They’re the people who admire a perfectly honed chef’s knife and a sushi chef who’s been slicing tuna the exact same way for 40 years.

Hong Kong fans? They’re chaos junkies. They want unpredictability, grit, and the thrill of not knowing whether tonight ends with that Michelin-starred goose or a 3 AM milk tea in a fluorescent-lit diner. They root for the underdog, the wild card, the guy who might throw up 40 points one night and foul out the next.

Me? I respect Tokyo the way you respect Tim Duncan — steady, great, legendary.

But Hong Kong? Hong Kong is Allen Iverson in 2001. Flashy, relentless, impossible to ignore.

Hong Kong stole my heart, and I’m not asking for it back.


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